Working on a slant

Debbie wrote to ask:
I just wanted you to know that I’m learning a lot from your book. But I have a question. I’m ready to start shading, blending ect. When you do this do you do it with your drawing board flat or still on a tilt?

On a tilt, Debbie – for two reasons.

First, I’m too lazy to readjust my drawing board 🙂

Second, it allows loose graphite to drift down away from my drawing surface. There is almost no other reason why you shouldn’t work on a horizontal board.

However, the practice of drawing on a tilted drawing board is universally accepted because it minimises parallax errors. If you work on a flat board you may be looking directly down at the base of your drawing but parallax distortion will occur because the top of your drawing is angled away from you. This is like working in perspective (measurements diminish in size with distance) on something that will ultimately hang vertically in front of the viewer.

That said, if you already have guidelines in place then parallax errors shouldn’t occur, because you will simply be working within predefined boundaries.

It’s your choice but, personally, I’d choose a tilted surface where every part of my drawing is an equal distance from my eyes.

A Very Special Workshop

We fancied doing something SPECIAL as a workshop in 2011. Jacksons Hole was mentioned but the cost was prohibitive and then the idea slowly dawned… let’s go back to YELLOWSTONE! But this time, instead of a 5-day workshop, let’s make it six days, make it affordable, and include everything in the price – that’s:

  • Illustrated talk by a Park Ranger so we know what to expect and look out for during our visit to…
  • A full day in the Park with assistance on photography, taking that unusual but useful shot, and looking for elements that can be combined into a useful setting. And we provide transport and lunch.
  • Improve your photography – late afternoon sessions by talented Artist and Photographer Rich Adams beginning with the basic uses of compact cameras.
  • Visits to the nearby Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center to get those photographs that eluded you in the Park.
  • Five days of uninterrupted drawing covering drawing from the basics up to advanced.
  • AND all tools and paper will be provided. Just bring yourself.

YELLOWSTONE USA 6-day SPECIAL WORKSHOP

Dates     : 12th -17th June 2011
Duration : 6 days, 10 am to 5 pm
Location : Holiday Inn, West Yellowstone, Montana

Our busy 2008 Yellowstone 5-day workshop

Novice or advanced, you’ll travel from the basics right through to a final drawing, covering a variety of techniques along the way, including the use of references and how to use them for composition, how to use Negative Drawing effectively, and the benefits of seeing and using Negative Space. And no lectures! I prefer to work with you individually so you can learn and explore by drawing.

And I’ll show you how you can break down any drawing, however complex, into easily manageable parts, and apply simple step-by-step techniques to draw them believably.

You’ll learn both the “HOW” and the more important “WHY” – the one that adds understanding to the other. Whatever your present ability, you will leave with a new-found knowledge of how to draw effectively, and how to remove stress from your drawing projects.

WORKSHOP DETAILS

We’re doing everything we can to make this special workshop affordable – including reserving rooms in two hotels to give you a cheaper option. And we scouted for local RV and campsites as well as B&Bs. They’re all listed on my website.

Let’s make this a workshop to remember! Or, as Rich said, something to tell your grandchildren about   🙂

New Studio update

Has it really been over a month since I last posted progress with the new studio? How time flies when there’s work to be done.

I have still to begin work in the studio itself, because the completion of the office and shipping room will enable me to move out of the house and continue with running the business.

All the lighting cables have been installed and the power ones too. The power is in two circuits, so we can shut down the computers from one switch without disturbing any items that need to be left running overnight. The strip lighting in both rooms has been completed, and feeds provided through to the studio. And I’ve finished the gloss painting in the office and the vinyl wall covering.

We made two good purchases: Jenny found a supply of excellent once-used office furniture and we bought three desks and two drawer units – all for the price of two new desks. And we found new, end-of-consignment, carpet tiles at a 60% discount!

All the desks needed to be drastically altered – narrowed by 7½ inches, new cables holes cut, and the legs repositioned. I omitted the modesty panels but, as they were a part of the strength of the legs, the tables are now bracketed to the walls. The panels will later be used for a floor-to-ceiling bookcase.

DVD editing station left and accounts at right

As yet we have no heating, although the cable trunking is ready to take the power to an HVAC unit. When it’s installed in the office, it will heat both rooms by way of a grill to be placed in the opening above the door. This unit will provide heating, ventilation, dehumidifying and air conditioning. And we need it as temperatures lately have been as low as -18°C overnight! Some days it’s just too cold to work in there.

General workstation, and DVD editing and accounts areas

Last night I fitted and painted the door to the office, so I can now close that room off and concentrate on completing the next room. I cleared the shipping and storage room of tools and, as soon as the air temperature warms a bit, I’ll begin by laying the flooring, for which we found a discounted end-of-roll sheet of vinyl. The steel racking has been delivered and I have one storage unit to build and a plan chest from the existing studio to alter and make into our packing table.

The emptied shipping room ready to be completed

Let’s hope the heating is delivered soon and I can fit it in sub-zero temperatures, and that I can post new progress quicker next time! 🙂

Colour Shapers

Kevin emailed me to ask:

I read in your book (Line to Life) yesterday that you use colour shapers sometimes for blending. I would like to buy a set but I was not aware that they came in different sizes. Could you please advise me as to which size to buy. The ones I have seen are size 0, 2 and 6. Many thanks and I love the book.

Colour Shaper varieties

When I see a tool, however far removed from drawing, and it looks useful I just have to try it 🙂

Colour Shapers are intended for painters but I find then ideal for blending in tight spots. Unlike tortillons or stumps, they don’t absorb much graphite, so they lighten less. And they’re easily cleaned by screwing the business end into a lump of Blu-Tack.

They come in different sizes and profiles, as you mentioned, and in two types – stiff and flexible. I know a couple of artists who prefer the stiff variety but I find the flexible more appealing.

I have three:

Flat chisel – size 6 (rarely used)
Taper point – size 1 (I think – it’s rubbed off!)
Taper point – size 2

Of the three I mainly use the size 1 Taper Point. I find it’s ideal for blending when I’m drawing remarques. Because I remarque on the coated surface of the (offset-litho) printing paper, I’m restricted to using 2B and 2H, and I achieve the half tones by establishing the line element of each area with the 2B and then dragging the graphite over the lighter areas.

If you don’t have one you won’t miss it. But if you do, you’ll find unique uses for it. In my case, I very rarely blend anything, apart from skies and dirt floors, so blenders are not my most popular tool. But the Colour Shapers certainly fulfil a need at times.

New Studio update

By now you must be thinking “No progress? Has Mike grown tired of it already?” Well, no. George the builder completed the shell and interior room dividers while I was running workshops in Oregon, California and Colorado – but there still remains much to do.

Exterior view
Completed building and new door
Security and storeroom doors

My first job was to fit the exterior door frame and security door outside of the inset glazed storeroom door, and paint it green. That accomplished, the plywood interior skin, ceilings and walls needed preparation and papering. In the meantime, the white protective tape has been removed from the brown window frames, which are white only on the inside.

The ceilings are being papered with heavy-duty liner paper to be emulsion painted later. This is the first time I’ve papered a ceiling, and I’m quite pleased with the result – but you’d better keep out of hearing range if you see me wrestling with the manic paper! The walls of the storeroom will also be painted, but the office and studio walls will be papered because, hopefully, that should give no indication of the surface behind it – and it should give us a much better working environment.

North east view with tape removed from window frames

The building itself, which currently has no form of heating, is proving to be well insulated – for both heat and sound. Even rain on the steel profile roof is only just audible.

At present I’m spending most afternoons working in the studio. In the evening, when required, I’m at DrawSpace.com, critiquing the work of artists attending my Novice correspondence course. And bringing my accounts up to date in between 🙂

Tomorrow, Sunday, I will have completed the papering of both the office and storeroom, completed the painting of the storeroom’s walls and maybe gloss painting the door frames.

Looking into office from storeroom

I’m able to do this because I’ve run a temporary power lead into the building for a light – usually used in my workshop when I’m welding. So the next project will be the installation of the permanent wiring for lighting, followed by the wiring for the power sockets and heating.

I’m undecided about heating. We sited the LPG gas tank near the studio so we could link up to it for central heating, but now I’m favouring an HVAC system. This combines Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning with a dehumidifying bonus. Two units should be sufficient, and that’s why I’ve omitted the wall panel above the office door – to allow heat to flow to both rooms from one unit.

I know watching me do this is like watching paint dry – literally! – so expect a welcome break before I post the next update. 🙂