Conqueror Paper weight - does it matter?

[kcondon]

Hi, Mike -
This seems like such a novice question, but at the risk of embarrassing myself, I'll ask!

I believe I've found a source for Conquerer paper in the US (Brilliant White, ultra smooth finish). I've obtained samples of the paper, and it looks to the be the same paper that I've purchased here, but because of the shipping cost, I can obtain it much less expensively. (This is so important now that my husband has retired! ) It comes in both 92lb and 115 cover stock weights.

I know the Conquerer paper that you sell on this site is 92lb version. But this suddenly raised a question whether there was a reason (related to drawing) that you opt to work with the 92lb instead of the heavier 115lb? Or, is it strictly a decision based on the paper cost or personal preference?

Thank you!
Kara

[Mike Sibley]

I believe I've found a source for Conqueror paper in the US (Brilliant White, ultra smooth finish). I've obtained samples of the paper, and it looks to be the same paper that I've purchased here, but because of the shipping cost, I can obtain it much less expensively.

Conqueror is pretty easy to find but the larger and heavier sizes are usually more difficult to source. Here in the UK they're more or less confined to the Commercial Printing industry and so come in packs of 100 or more sheets.

If you've found large, heavy-weight sheets in small quantities - well done!

That said, Brilliant White is not the same as the Diamond White I stock and is possibly a little less white.

It comes in both 92lb and 115 cover stock weights. I know the Conqueror paper that you sell on this site is 92lb version.

Near enough - it's actually 250gsm (grams per square metre), which is similar to 95lb paper.

But this suddenly raised a question whether there was a reason (related to drawing) that you opt to work with the 92lb instead of the heavier 115lb? Or, is it strictly a decision based on the paper cost or personal preference?

Personally, I prefer working on the 115lb (320gsm) or the heaviest 126lb (350gsm), but I stock only the 92lb (250gsm). The reason is very simple... I can safely roll and ship 10 sheets in a 3" diameter tube - but I can't do that with 10 sheets of 320gsm or heavier

[kcondon]

Thank you so much, Mike! Very helpful and much appreciated.

[Mike Sibley]

Since items to the USA can be pretty pricey to ship, what do we use over here since Conqueror is not available? Artarama has Bristol and Union Square Cartridge type paper in pads, would these work?

Bristol is a three-ply paper and I personally don't like the soft core. Cartridge is what I was working on when I first discovered Ivorex, which was (it's no longer available) very close to Conqueror. I love that Ivorex, then Mellotex, and now Conqueror are super-smooth and don't interfere with what I'm drawing. They are virtually texture free. And are, of course, archival too.

As for Conqueror...

From my shop, Conqueror Diamond White is £1.80 per sheet, and the sheet size is SRA2, which is trimmed to about 18" x 23" for shipping. The shipping (let's assume an order of 10 sheets) almost doubles the cost, so £3.60 per sheet, or about $4.30 US. That's on a par with papers such as Strathmore and Canson. And many artists tell me they get two drawings from each sheet.

Right now I'm out of stock... but I'm expecting a delivery of 500 sheets tomorrow!

[ElaineH]

Mike, I would be interested in a comparison between the use of Conqueror diamond white and brilliant white smooth Bristol Board. I use both papers and prefer the overall effect of the Conqueror, however, I have not noticed very much difference in the way the graphite behaves on the two types.

[Mike Sibley]

I can't really answer that, Elaine, because it's many years since I last used Bristol. However, from memory, I think one advantage I have now when working on Conqueror is that it's far more stable and durable.

Because the tooth is minimal, darks require some pressure to establish them with any strength, I tend to be quite brutal with my shading. I might apply 2B with a lot of weight and work in tight circles, and then repeat that using an HB to burnish the 2B. I recall earlier papers breaking down. Fibres lifting and catching more graphite to create dark marks that I couldn't remove. Conqueror is long grained (I think - Mellotex was and Conqueror appears to be the same) so the instances of fibres being raised or disturbed is almost unknown.

So, while the experience of drawing might feel the same for both Conqueror Diamond White and Bristol Board, I suspect Conqueror will withstand much more punishment.

I have a recollection of Bristol board being two smooth sheets bonded to a softer core. I could be wrong about that - it's just my belief. Conqueror however, is a solid plate-finish smooth paper.

[Mike Sibley]

This is okay If I had major work, but I'm doing your video courses that you pay for monthly, and will probably not keep the exercises. Is there a decent paper that is somewhat similar and cheaper to practice with exercises?

I'm not a paper expert, but I suggest you try Strathmore Smooth, or any smooth Bristol Board. Buy a pad of Bristol smooth, remove the sheets before use, and make sure you have a smooth and hard surface under it when drawing. That will ensure it feels exactly the same every time you draw. If you use it in a pad it will be spongy and variable.