Division (divide & conquer)

[Valray]

Hi Mike & Laurene,
After reading your advice to me on division, I decided to try on my own.
It’s a succulent (photo Pixabay) that I thought showed division really well.
I started with the top left background black space. Then the leaf next to it (middle), then the leaf on top of that one.

Working down the paper I did the next two sections, black space, then tiny leaf on top of that.

Lastly, the bottom bit, which I’m not sure whether it’s black space or a much lower leaf. (I’m thinking leaf).

My paper is Strathmore 300 Bristol smooth 9 x 12” and my iPad mini with photo.

Having taken the photo I can see that my darkest is not dark enough yet so will be working on it.

Next will be middle leaf at 9 o’clock then top leaf at 10 working down the page.

Actually physically drawing it makes your division videos easy to understand. It definitely makes me look harder especially at tonal value and where each one fits in.

So thank you both, Mike for your very welcome advice and Laurene for your words of encouragement.

Kind regards,
Val

[Mike Sibley]

Having taken the photo I can see that my darkest is not dark enough yet so will be working on it.

...which means you'll be making the darkest value darker... and then adjusting everything else to conform to the new value scale. And that means you'll be redrawing. And potentially redrawing again until you're happy with the darkest value.

Basically, that's the light-to-dark method that not only don't I understand, I think it's positively harmful! It begins with little idea of what you're trying to achieve, and results in a soft and hazy, over-worked drawing.

Now imagine you explored your reference and found your darkest value first. And had then established it before moving on. Now you will never have to revisit any completed areas, and your drawing will remain sharp and alive.

Also, you are allowed to lie! You can artificially stretch the values you see in your reference. That's because the human mind will understand and read the darkest value as black, and the lightest as white. However, where a close set of values (minimum contrast) will quickly leave the mind bored and unimpressed, using as much contrast as you can, will inevitably excite the mind and capture its attention.

[Valray]

Hi Mike,

You are right. I’ve had to adjust my values. I did that before moving on, and made sure that I don’t make that same mistake again. I’ve now done the next 2 leaves (using division) making sure my values are correct to the previous leaves.

A question about burnishing with the 2H (or HB) - should I press much harder than when using the 2B and HB or is it the same pressure throughout as well as the same stroke? This seems to be a problem area for me. I am unsure when it comes to pressure, should I press hard or soft and when. (I am still in the beginners section of the videos, and don’t think I saw where pressure was mentioned, tho I may have missed it.)

Thanks again,
Val

[Mike Sibley]

I’ve now done the next 2 leaves (using division) making sure my values are correct to the previous leaves.

Do you find that those values simply fall into place? I do. As soon as I switched to drawing dark to light, it all made so much more sense. Not that the switch was a conscious decision. It just developed over time.

A question about burnishing with the 2H (or HB) - should I press much harder than when using the 2B and HB or is it the same pressure throughout as well as the same stroke?

Same pressure - certainly not much more. If you feel the need to use excessive pressure, move up to the next softer grade. Otherwise, you risk damaging your paper, and (should it be necessary) it won't erase either.

Burnishing is just "polishing" the softer grade. It spreads its larger graphite granules, breaks them up, and fills any white pits left by the tooth of the paper.

This seems to be a problem area for me. I am unsure when it comes to pressure, should I press hard or soft and when.

The only time I press hard is when I'm forming solid blacks with 2B - and I know my paper will take it without damage. Otherwise, try for medium pressure - or lighter to lighten a value. Although that often results in a grainy appearance, so it's probably better to go up a couple of grades instead. Or to use the current grade lightly, and then burnish that with a harder grade. 2H over HB for example.

Whatever you do, try to avoid carving grooves in your paper. Even if you manage to erase them later, they'll still reappear every time you draw over them.

And don't worry - just keep drawing, and you'll soon find the right pressure to use without even realising it's happening.

[Valray]

Hi Mike,

Thank you so much for your description of pressures. I understand the process better now.

I was definitely using too much pressure when burnishing and as you stated, I caused some indentation on my paper (especially when using the harder 2H). I could see them especially when light falls on the area. So I will take all your suggestions to improve my work and will post the result when finished.

Thanks again.
Regards,
Val

[Mike Sibley]

I was definitely using too much pressure when burnishing and as you stated, I caused some indentation on my paper (especially when using the harder 2H). I could see them, especially when light falls on the area.

Have a look at the LILY VIDEO again. That should give you a good idea of how much pressure I was using. Which, apart from the initial black triangle, wasn't much at all.

Now, that's partly because I knew this surface would need to be blended - pencil lines look out of place on a smooth petal. So, bear that in mind too, because if you draw heavily you might have problems blending it later.

[Laurene]

I certainly can’t add to Mike’s advice and guidance.

I just wanted to encourage you because from what I can see you have an excellent eye for subtle gradations of value. I’m especially looking at those two leaves in the upper left corner. They’re beautifully rendered!