"First Steps" Exercises from DWM Videos

[wayneCol]

One last point to make about these UNI leads. On small applications the flat face of the chisel point is wonderful, but on larger areas of application it becomes a PITA (Pain In The *ss ) since the flat face gets very smooth and leaves very little graphite on each stroke. The remedy is more pressure and the constant application of more pressure leads to sore fingers, hands, wrists and arms - and even worse to "graphite shine". Thus far I've put up with it, but I do find it very ugly and annoying. The sharp edge is Ok to work with and as an experiment, I sharpened one of the UNI leads ( the 2B I think ) to a sharp point with my KUM eraser. That point applied lots of graphite without undue pressure and the point lasted a very long time - I think that the hardness of the lead, it's break resistance and it's point retention are it's "marketing points". My takeaway here is that if I continue with the UNI leads it will not be with a chisel point but with a well sharpened point.

The dilemma I'm facing now is this : Staedtler & Faber-Castell & Koh-I-Noor 2mm lead products are not at all common here, which means they have to be imported, which means very high prices. Amazon and Dick Blick sell them for reasonable prices but the shipping is EXHORBITANT. I have some locally available brands - namely STABILO and MONGOL. MONGOL pencils are everywhere here, They are the yellow bodied school type pencil, made by EBERHARD-FABER, come in three grades (#1, #2 and #3 - very original I know - #2 is an HB), the quality is reasonable and while they are useable, they only give a very limited value range ( from about values 3 to 7 - nothing darker ). Tonight I'm going to buy a set of STABILO pencils to try them out but STABILO is an unknown brand to me - anyone know anything about them?

So, if I abandon the UNI leads in favor of graphite pencils, I can adopt the MONGOLs and I have to accept a very reduced value range and only 3 pencils to work with OR I can adopt the STABILOs if my test tonight has positive results.

My father would have called that "A bit of a sticky wicket!"

[Mike Sibley]

I allowed Affinity Photo to auto-adjust your scan to what I believe might be closer in value to your original. I can see the blending better too.

WAYNE-TAPERS.jpg

I have never used a tapered stroke before, so I'm going to do Sadashiv Sawant's (Pencil Perceptions) exercises for learning the tapered stroke. That should take about a week...

I consider the tapered stroke to be absolutely essential. I can even argue that EVERY line should be tapered. And that's based on 40 years experience of drawing hair. And it's backed up by Darrel Tank (search on YouTube if you don't know him) for suggesting the name. It's something I've done for many many years without ever naming it.

Well, Darrel calls it the "tapered stroke" and I name it a "tapered line", because "stroke" suggests a light, uncertain mark, where "line" is deliberate and controlled.

I also need some guidance with the "Blending"... The instructions were to use "Paper Towel" for the blending, but... maybe "Toilet Tissue" would have been more appropriate because I REALLY do not like the "rings" effect.

I don't know if "paper towel" is a typo, or due to a belief that "toilet tissue" might not be understood in the US... but I don't use paper/kitchen towels, always toilet tissue. And, ironically, my favourite is "free" US hotel toilet tissue, because it's free of anything but paper.

Ultimately, you need to find what works best for you. Chamois, maybe? That’s something I've never used. Just don't use your unprotected finger, or you'll contaminate the surface with oil from your skin.

I blended these 2 exercises with the lightest pressure possible, but I get these rings showing up where the pencil grade changes Before blending there was no perceived edge where the lower pencil grade level ended, but the moment they are blended these rings appear.

By "rings" are you referring to the ends of the arcs of each layer? Accepting that was your meaning, I admit to some subterfuge... I ask you to blend the result because it exposes blunt ends. Blending can only smooth, but it will remove graphite and expose blunt and hooked ends, and it cannot remove them. And I can see many blunt ends. It's those ends that are defining the edges of each layer. If every line you drew had a tapered end, the blended result would have had much smoother transitions between the grades.

The same exercise but smaller with Staedtler leads (not UNI) does NOT show these rings! Is the polymer the problem, or am I doing something wrong? Most importantly, how do I get rid of these rings!!!

Why the Staedtlers don't show that effect... I don't know. The more you describe the qualities of the UNIs, the less I'm liking them. They seem to be very "plastic" based. I'm old-school and prefer the conventional clay/graphite base. The polymer could be the problem - but I still believe the fundamental problem is blunt ends; not lifting off gradually at the end of each line. See TAPERED LINES for assistance.

Secondly, in the top row center, I have written my name with 2H... I expected to see the hard pencil resist the softer top layer...

That's one of the exercises I use in my physical workshops, and I know it might not work for everyone. It's highly dependent on how the 2H is applied, and the type of paper surface it's being applied too. Try a smooth or plate-finish paper. Then thoroughly shade a shape with medium pressure. Now shade over that with the FLAT FACE of a 2B (or 4B or softer) and it's highly likely you will see the effect of the soft grade sliding over the hard grade. See GRAPHITE INDENTING for evidence of the effect (at 2:50).

...I am supposed to see a difference between the two gradations in the top row...

After blending, yes. Unblended, probably not. The first exercise was just to explain the process, using grades you might more commonly choose. The second uses a more narrow range of grades, but should produce a similar or better result - because 4B and softer tend to be progressively grainier. That's OK where graininess might be a benefit, but not good for any surface intended to look smooth. Both of yours look good. Excellent gradations with a smooth application. And I hope you saw your initial darks strengthen as you layered the harder grades over them.

[Mike Sibley]

...these UNI leads. On small applications the flat face of the chisel point is wonderful, but on larger areas of application it becomes a Pain In The *ss. My takeaway here is that if I continue with the UNI leads it will not be with a chisel point but with a well sharpened point.

That makes sense. I can only knowledgeably comment on Staedtlers, because I've used nothing else since 1980. And Derwents to some extent, because I use a set in the videos... but I'd never think of using them in a drawing.

The dilemma I'm facing now is this : Staedtler & Faber-Castell & Koh-I-Noor 2mm lead products are not at all common here, which means they have to be imported, which means very high prices...

I understand, although if you buy a few packs of 12 leads, they're going to last YEARS. I might have gone through a pack of 2Bs in a year when I was drawing full-time, but I rarely had to stock up. And don't forget you're only sharpening the lead, so there's little waste. And if you use a chisel point, that reduces the sharpening to maybe once or twice a day.

Just a thought - no pressure - but I sell Staedtler leads and shop worldwide. I also source my stock from anywhere that I can buy it at a reasonable or low cost, so I'm competitive.

I have some locally available brands - namely STABILO and MONGOL. MONGOL pencils are everywhere here... Tonight I'm going to buy a set of STABILO pencils to try them out, but STABILO is an unknown brand to me - anyone know anything about them?

Mongols are not known to me. Stabilo is a known brand, but I know nothing more than that. Hmmmm... it seems Office Depot sell them, which perhaps isn't the best recommendation? Let us know how you find them.

[wayneCol]

Mike
I searched around my computer files and found the images of the MONGOL pencil tests I did a while ago, so you can see what I mean about a very limited value range.

I went to the local stationary store last night and bought as complete a set of STABILO pencils as I could piece together. I got a 7B, 4B, 3B, 2B, HB, F, H, 2H, 3H and 4H - more or less complete the 8B,6B and 5B are missing which is probably not a problem. This unknown( to me ) brand is readily available and inexpensive - 265 PHP for a box of 12 or about $0.58 CDN per pencil. Anyway, I'm going to run my normal suite of exercises on them and see how they perform and I will post the results.

I'm also starting 1 week of exhaustive Tapered Stroke exercises but since every graphite artist in the world uses and recommends it, it must be something I need to learn and learn well. Results to follow - after a short work break.

ValueScale.png

ValueScale2.png

As you can see they are serviceable but real darks are NOT possible. Regarding Darrel Tank - yes I am aware of him and the Five Pencil Method but we should probably take any more discussion offline( GMAIL ).

[wayneCol]

The instructions ( Page 27 of the Beginner PDF ) state "This time, use pencil strokes in one direction ... " and since tapered strokes aren't introduced until page 31, I think I'm justified in calling your "subterfuge" DIABOLICAL! I'm going to re-do that exercise (eventually .. soon ) using tapered strokes and see if the "ring effect" goes away or persists. Maybe it is the blunt ends that are the problem and I admit I made no attempt at tapering a single line in that exercise.!

Also, Page 28 clearly states "Blending with paper towel ... ". Paper towel is used in the kitchen, toilet tissue is used in the bathroom and I used paper towel to blend lightly but paper towel is very heavy duty and coarse so maybe that had something to do with the ring effect as well. Let's wait for the re-do to see.

On another piece of paper which I unfortunately did not keep I experimented with layered UNI grades and I did NOT like the results when I attempted to blend them mechanically. Blending with the point of the pencil was easy, but mechanically --- I won't be trying that again. In fairness, it could be the paper which is the ultimate problem and I'll do the experiment again on a different brand of Bristol.

[Mike Sibley]

I found the images of the MONGOL pencil tests I did a while ago, so you can see what I mean about a very limited value range. As you can see, they are serviceable, but real darks are NOT possible.

Yep... very limited. What are they like in use? No scratchy grains? Properly centred leads?

And as for "serviceable", I suspect a blunt poker would be serviceable in your hands. You have a very through and methodical approach that produces beautifully smooth results.

I went to the local stationery store last night and bought as complete a set of STABILO pencils... I'm going to run my normal suite of exercises on them and see how they perform, and I will post the results.

That will be both interesting and instructive. It's not a brand I've taken seriously, but I could certainly be wrong about that.

I'm also starting 1 week of exhaustive Tapered Stroke exercises, but since every graphite artist in the world uses and recommends it, it must be something I need to learn and learn well.

It IS! I really cannot stress how important they are to good drawing. I could easily argue that every line you draw should be tapered often AT BOTH ENDS. And learn to draw them in all directions.

There are very few elements in Nature that contain blunt ends. So, they always look unnatural. And, once you can taper your lines, you can divide large areas up into smaller, manageable sections. As a taper over a taper is simply an unbroken solid line, all the transitions will be invisible and seamless.

[Mike Sibley]

The instructions ( Page 27 of the Beginner PDF ) state "This time, use pencil strokes in one direction ... " and since tapered strokes aren't introduced until page 31, I think I'm justified in calling your "subterfuge" DIABOLICAL!

OK - I can see the problem.... partly.

I wrote the course, but Brenda broke then it up into sections to produce the self-directed lessons. So, I was concerned that she hadn't appreciated the necessity for the use of tapered lines.

Well, that's almost true. But on Page 27 it does state, "Start with a heavier weight at the top and reduce the weight as you move downwards, tapering off as you end the line to produce a feathering effect."

So it is technically correct, but I concede that it's not nearly emphasised enough. Especially as the whole point of that exercise is to practice tapered lines.

[wayneCol]

Thanks for the compliment --- blunt poker, indeed!

Mongol pencils are a little grainy but well-centered and sharpen nicely - they are designed for school children. I find the value range very limiting and the value differences from #1, #2 and #3 to be very small. I won't use them willingly.

Hmmm.... I completely missed that. I thought ( mistakenly ) that the objective was blending, when in fact it's blending tapered lines. My mistake and as soon as I've finished doing my new pencil exercises with STABILO and the tapered stroke exercises, I'll re-do Week 2 exercise.

I do have some preliminary results from new pencil exercise #1. These pencils sharpen nicely, no problems with the wood splitting, achieve a very sharp point which lasts a long time - in fact I only sharpened each pencil in this first exercise once. The barrel is hexagonal but the grade is only marked on 1 facet which I corrected with masking tape on the end and a black marker. Scan of new pencil exercise #1 follows

Ahhhh I get a message saying file is too large - it's only 1.3 MB. What to do??? Lowered resolution seems to do the trick ... but now it looks grainy and it is NOT it's in fact very smooth.

Image-0002.jpg

[Mike Sibley]

I thought (mistakenly) that the objective was blending, when in fact it's blending tapered lines. My mistake and... I'll re-do Week 2 exercise.

After all your Tapered Line practice, it will be a good test for you. If you need to see in practice, it's in here somewhere.

Oh, despite my assurance that I don't use paper towels, I'd forgotten that I was once did. So, it does say in the video "use kitchen paper (paper towel) or toilet tissue". BUT I haven't used paper towels in a long time. However, I recall letting that remain in both the PDF and video, because it might be the solution you're looking for.

I do have some preliminary results from new pencil exercise #1.

Thanks for the information on the STABILO pencils. There's something in that image that's concerning me. A niggling feeling that I can't shake off. Go on Lemming... over the cliff...

Image-0002-4B.jpg

You've shaded vertically and reduced the weight as you travelled right. That's good. Then in the 4B box, you terminated your shading with your horizontal "airplane strokes". Also, OK. But...

It is far preferable for you to simply reduce the weight to zero. As you did for the other three boxes. And I say that because I'm worried you are going to be caught in a "technique trap". That's where technique wins over content. When you use those little finessing techniques, you lose spontaneity and the ability to properly interpret. The techniques always get in the way.

Ideally, you want to gather together a bunch of techniques that you can perform without thought. That takes practice, but eventually you’ll arrive at a state where you can lose yourself in the texture or surface you're drawing... and simply recreate it. "Fussy" (and, potentially, pointless) techniques will only interrupt the flow and break your concentration. Just my opinion - I could be wrong. Just don't let technique get in the way of the story you're trying to tell.

Ahhhh I get a message saying file is too large - it's only 1.3 MB. What to do??? Lowered resolution seems to do the trick ... but now it looks grainy, and it is NOT, it's in fact very smooth.

There are two image limits at DWM:
Width must not exceed 1000px (no height limitation).
And the file size must not be larger than 1MB.
I have a 1TB server, with a load of videos and five websites on it, hence the limit.

Also, however high the resolution of your image, it will be viewed at 72ppi. That's monitor resolution (Macs might be 96ppi?) and you can't work around that. Monitors will not display the full 300ppi, or whatever you're using. The difference only plays a part when printing.

If size is a problem, try cropping away un....... I'm now trying to type with a Cocker Spaniel on my lap, and it's head resting on my typing arm... Not easy! Where was I? Try cropping away unnecessary areas. If colour isn't necessary, convert your image to greyscale. That will usually drop the filesize by up to two thirds without any loss of quality.

[wayneCol]

Mike

I have spent some time today, completing the second of three "new pencil" exercises that I do whenever I start to use a brand of pencils for the first time. But I have to tell you that every time I looked at these gradients, I remembered your "blunt poker" comment which of course made me smile/laugh which in turn turned a normal somewhat routine day into a very enjoyable one. Thanks for that!

My friend Roger thinks that I should change my user-id to (guess what?) "bluntPoker"! Ha Ha!

The first exercise (posted previously) with the Stabilo pencils gave us 1 pencil swatch for each grade in the set.

Here are the results of the second of 3 of these exercises. This is the whole exercise, but I need to explain each piece.

Image-0001.jpg

We begin by selecting the 2H, HB and 2B pencils since they are the ones we will use most frequently. So in the leftmost portion of the exercise we create three value gradients, starting with a heavy pressure application and progressing upward and fading to white.

I1.jpg

The middle portion of the exercise shows a soft over hard and a hard over soft application and these pencils demonstrate the "graphite resist" beautifully. The lesson to be learned or reinforced here is that hard graphite is always applied over soft. This lesson is taught in every art instruction method that I am familiar with, academic or not, ( except Darrel Tank's Five Pencil Method which always applies soft over hard and the washed-out, veiled results speak for themselves. )

I2.jpg

This next exercise attempts to show how the three grades will play together and this next image explains the order that graphite is applied to the final exercise - obeying the hard over soft rule.

I6.jpg

Once completed, the exercise contains the following values and layers.

I7.jpg

If we take one of the value gradients( in this case the 2H from the leftmost exercise ) and rotate it 90 degrees counter-clockwise, and compare it to the computer-generated 9 value scale, we can see that that the 2H can cover values from 1 thru to 3 with normal pressure on the pencil and that values 4 and 5 can be achieved by using more pressure. Doing similar comparisons with the HB and 2B pencils we can cover the value scale as follows:
1 thru 3 2H
4 thru 6 HB
7 thru 9 2B


We then use the assigned pencil grades to complete the value scale exercise at the bottom of the page.

The third exercise of the "new pencil" group is very time-consuming and I only do it if the results of exercises 1 and 2 are favourable but it's purpose is to force spending enough time with the pencils and getting in sufficient "mileage" to begin to develop some feeling for the pencils. In all honesty, I rather like these pencils, they sharpen well, keep their point for a very long time, blend nicely and the application is very smooth and they are readily available here. I prefer them to the lead holders and the UNI leads at least for these exercises - less strain on my wrist, so ... exercise 3 coming up