kookaburra or inn local tounge "Wiradjuri guuguubarra,"

[Boblines]

A noisy chatterbox, the Kookaburra, is not native to Western Australia but, like me, a migrant. ( Although it didn't have to travel as far as me!!)

Drawn HB-6B on standard cartridge paper.

Mike! How do you manage to whiten the background on published images as you did for an early post of mine.?

[Laurene]

Another lovely drawing! I enjoy the way you’ve given as much attention to the tree bark as to the kookaburra, yet it doesn’t compete with the main subject. Thank you for sharing.

[Boblines]

Thank you Laurene. The thing which first attracted me to the subject matter was the rhythmic, sinuous shape of the tree itself. I am afraid the image resolution is, once again, not up to scratch but Mike's helpful advice has been taken aboard so that I hope future images will better represent the drawings themselves. I visited your web site this morning for the first time. Was very impressed with the duck ( Mallard?) featured on the home page. Beautifully drawn; fine composition with that rhythmic background water which, for me, makes the the image "live". I shall take heed!!

[LindasPencils]

Nicely drawn Laughing Jackass! (as we call them down South). You have nailed the proportions of this bird well - it can be a difficult one to draw and get the beak/eye/head relationship right. Well done. And as Laurene says, the tree bark is well observed but doesn't overpower the bird image.
I feel the feet could be larger - feet are my bugbear - but as they are tucked into the hollow of the tree they still work. I would like to see darker tonal contrast behind the bird around the head area to force the bird forward more. And I think you deserve to treat yourself to some quality paper! A good hot press paper will allow you to explore those tonal ranges more. You have drawn a great image on a paper that is not easy to work with.
Well done drawing, I hope to see more from you.

[Boblines]

Well spotted Linda!! It is of great interest to me how often the creator can, so often, be blind to things which are obvious to the observer. A slighter darkening of tone behind the head will improve the image substantially. Thank you for the feedback. On the subject of paper: I do not find cartridge paper that unpleasant to work with although I acknowledge its limitations. I find sometimes the texture can be useful. I also use Bristol HP ( see my first post to this site) but I find it less "forgiving". Each to his/her own I suppose.

[PogArtTi]

Very nice drawing I do agree.
Lovely textures, detailed work...
You have received professional comments already, so I would share my likeness only

[Mike Sibley]

Mike! How do you manage to whiten the background on published images as you did for an early post of mine.?

It's slightly easier in Photoshop, but I use Affinity Photo now. Roughly:

Open the image (after copying it, in my case for yours)
If its graphite, remove the colour. Reduce to greyscale in Photoshop. In Affinity (I use a custom shortcut) use Menu > Document > Convert format then convert to Grey 8 > greyscale D50
Duplicate the layer (CTRL+J)
Work on the new layer
Any time you're not certain if the next stage will work, duplicate it again (so you can either go back, or alter the opacity to blend the two)
I use Levels (keyboard: L)
In Photoshop, you can click on the "white point" to see if that will work. It often does.
In Affinity Photo, adjust the white point to the left (watching the histogram, so you don't over do it.
Better still, hold down ALT while you adjust the white balance. Move the white point until you begin to see what AF is planning to return to white.
If that's OK, save it.
Duplicate the layer, and now try pushing up the darks - use ALT again to see what you're altering.
If you need to fine tune - not unusual - use the Dodge tool (keyboard: O)

If that sounds a bit complicated... don't worry. It's actually quite easy after you've had a little practice.

I should mention that a scan will produce better results than a photo. Cameras (any type, even smartphones) read white as an 18% grey. That's what you need to correct. If you're using a camera that you can set the white balance, buy a Grey Card. Point the camera at it to set the white balance, then take your photo.

18% grey for an average scene works fine for usual photography. But your drawing isn't average - it's very contrasty, and that throws the camera's system out.

[Mike Sibley]

Linda said everything I wanted to say... but I'll say it anyway

A little more contrast would add more presence and increase the depth and three-dimensionality.

But I love the textures. And the bird. I photographed a pair many years ago in a local bird garden, and every year I think "Well, maybe this year..." and I still haven't drawn them They're a very appealing subject.

[Boblines]

Thanks for all that info Mike and of course for the comments on the drawing itself.

None of my drawings are intended for reproduction in any form. I offer them to forum members, primarily yourself, to gain comment and advice. I prefer the texture of cartridge paper notwithstanding its deficiencies and am uncomfortable with ultra smooth surfaces. Have you had experience with Arches hot pressed papers ( I haven't) and if so would you recommend them. Hilberry in the USA speaks of them on his YouTube channel.

[PogArtTi]

I do draw on that paper you've mention.
It has smooth texture, but I can't decide for you, whether you'll like it or not, unless you try it on your own.
It's smooth enough for my likeness, but still I can easily use that advantage of having some texture, which allow me to play with it the way it suits what I draw.
Yes, sometime I think I'd like it to be much smoother, not having that bit of texture, like Mike's paper (is it Conqueror Mike?) which in comparison is very very smooth, not showing texture (like photopaper?),and it's whiter too (correct me Mike if I'm wrong ).
The Arches in comparison is very white too, but I'd say - on the warmer side, towards the creamy feeling of the white if that's making sense...
For that reason I bought the Liquitex Medium...
I haven't try it yet, but I'm ready to experiment one day?
If I apply this medium over the Arches paper, it will cover smoothly the texture, and it will make the surface equally smooth, like Mike's Conqueror for example.
Furthermore it will make the surface much whiter than originally as well.
One day I'm willing to try the Liquitex for sure...
I guess you already know a lot about this Arches paper, assuming that you watched some reviews already, so I'm sharing my few pence only.