contour shading part 2

[DanielG]

Here are four more cylinders. I realized I was using to heavy of a hand and trying to go too fast to do the shading. I slowed down and was very deliberate in each line I made. I think by cylinder three I improved some, but I could be wrong. Let me know if these are an improvement.

Dan

[Mike Sibley]

Here are four more cylinders. I realized I was using too heavy of a hand and trying to go too fast to do the shading. I slowed down and was very deliberate in each line I made. I think by cylinder three I improved some...

Slowing down and being more careful was a good decision. Although, that said, I could argue that working faster helps... but only once you've trained your hand to do what your brain is telling it. And that's what you're doing at present - building eye/hand co-ordination. Telling your hand how to perform what you're thinking. And that's precisely what you need to be doing.

DAN-contour-shading.jpg

I think right now you're concentrating on the line without thinking too much about what it represents, because there are two problems.
1: Your lines are still blunt-ended. That's creating hard edges down your cylinder. Feather the ends - taper the lines - so each layer flows seamlessly into the one beneath it.
2: Your lines don't always follow the contour. That's particularly obvious in cylinder #1, where the dark ends in the lower three quarters all swing upwards. The base of #3 has the same problem.

#4 is better, but that has a couple of fingerprints in it. It's better that you discovered that problem now, rather than later in a drawing of importance. Graphite is a little like forensic dusting powder - it sticks to the natural oil your skin leaves on the paper. And that's non-reversible. Work with a piece of scrap paper under your hand as you draw.

Have you watched this video: CONTOUR SHADING?

You might notice some of my lines swing upwards, too - because the human wrist isn't built for drawing downward curving arcs. In this case I could turn the paper around, but in a drawing I wouldn't want to do that, because what I'm drawing is now upside down and no longer recognisable - it becomes a drawing exercise.

#3 and #4 are the best of the four, but they are still shaded in obvious bands. By all means slow down, but shade more lightly too. If you intend to blend - which you probably should here - then graphite sitting on top of the tooth will blend far more easily than graphite deep in the tooth.

[DanielG]

Have you watched this video: CONTOUR SHADING?

Yes I have watched contour shading several times pausing with each stage trying to recreate what you are doing. I believe it is time to go back even further and get my tapered lines down. Then I can come back to the shading. I think the fingerprints are where I was pressing too hard during blending and my finger went through the toilet paper. I shall online to practice till I get this right. Thank you for your honest comments.

Dan

[PogArtTi]

Mike is already supporting you patiently, providing bunch of pointed advice - just stick to it Daniel, and you'll improve your technique for sure.

Personally - my favourite cylinder is no.2.
I just like that prominent and rather stable contour of the dark tone, it isn't as much disturbed as the others, and it does represents the rounded shape more accurately.
Well done.

[DanielG]

Mike is already supporting you patiently, providing bunch of pointed advice - just stick to it Daniel, and you'll improve your technique for sure.

Yeah I guess I am taking up his time with my new drawing endeavors. I guess I should wait till I get more skill before posting more.

Personally - my favourite cylinder is no.2.
I just like that prominent and rather stable contour of the dark tone, it isn't as much disturbed as the others, and it does represents the rounded shape more accurately.
Well done.

Thank you.

[rideum51]

No No No Keep Posting

[Mike Sibley]

Yeah I guess I am taking up his time with my new drawing endeavors. I guess I should wait till I get more skill before posting more.

No, you aren't... and keep posting. I'm here to help you. And you might not be aware of something... some of my answers to you might be helping others.

Others that don't post - ever.

That's not unusual at all. I met the same "aversion to posting" when I had my forum at Alexie's ARTPAPA. Again when JD and I ran THE DRAWING FORUM between us. And now here at DRAW WITH MIKE.

It's what I expect. But that doesn't mean the silent majority don't want answers, Just that they don't want to ask the questions.

So, keep experimenting and practising and learning... and I'll happily help you along the way.

[Laurene]

"Mike Sibley"
Others that don't post - ever.

That's not unusual at all. I met the same "aversion to posting" when I had my forum at Alexie's ARTPAPA. Again when JD and I ran THE DRAWING FORUM between us. And now here at DRAW WITH MIKE.

I agree completely . I read posts on the old ARTPAPA forum for a whole year before I screwed up the courage to post a drawing. I learned by following other artists’ posts but I would have learned faster if I had participated. Keep going!

[PogArtTi]

Exactly, there's no shame to ask questions, and everyone in here is to support each other.
No matter what, whether you're beginner or experienced - we all improving our skills all the time, at least I DO ;);)
So post post post whatever you are up to Dan

[LindasPencils]

excellent study work. Good to see - this is the sort of thing I get all my students to work through and understand.
One thing I would like to point out is that the darkest part of your toned edge should never be the extreme edge as you will have reflected light there. The darkest part is always slightly in, not hard to the edge.