Tapered Lines

[DanielG]

I have been practicing based on your recommendations. I think I am improving slowly but surely. I can really see my errors when I scan the pictures in to the computer. I will keep practicing. I am having trouble getting the blacks as dark as you do in the video. I have even removed the leaves in the image so I have a larger area to practice tapered lines. I wonder if I can accomplish this goal at times.

[Mike Sibley]

I think I am improving slowly but surely. I can really see my errors when I scan the pictures in to the computer.

Computers are really useful for that

Don't force it. It will take time. Just keep drawing and incorporate the tapered line. Also, practise drawing them in all directions and different lengths and weights.

Eventually it will become second nature, and that's what you need. But it will happen in its own good time.

[DanielG]

I can see where my blacks are not really black enough on these drawings. Im not sure how to get them to go darker, unless I spray fixative and apply more layers; however, you accomplish this in a layer of 2B and a layer of HB.
I think I am getting better, but I see where I get impatient and my tapering goes out the window.

I will give it time and practice to have it fully come to me. Here are four drawings from my latest practice session.

[Mike Sibley]

DAN-woodgrain-2.jpg

There are still faults, but they're looking much better.

#2 has obvious banding, especially down the right-hand board. #4 is an improvement, but the banding, where your layers overlap, are clearly visible. One way to combat that it to vary the length of your lines.

#3 has some banding, but it's beginning to look like woodgrain - especially the central board.

And #1 contains the most realistic look of woodgrain. You appear to have been awarding the gaps as much importance as the lines you were drawing. And that's the "secret", because the lines are the summer wood and the gaps are lighter Spring wood - and you can't create one without the other. If I ignore the banding, #4 is also looking like wood. But #1 gets my vote

I will give it time and practice to have it fully come to me.

It's not something you can train yourself to do overnight. Relax; don't force it; just be aware that your lines should be tapered, and you'll find yourself doing that naturally in time.

I can see where my blacks are not really black enough on these drawings. I'm not sure how to get them to go darker, unless I spray fixative and apply more layers; however, you accomplish this in a layer of 2B and a layer of HB.

You have to bear in mind the paper I'm using. Conqueror Diamond White is plate-finish, so it has little tooth, but it's also long-grained, so it doesn't break up under pressure. I can, if I want to, almost carve the 2B into the surface. I can, at least, safely use all the pressure I need. Then a layer of HB on top fills any holes in the tooth. And I always have a smooth and hard (melamine) surface beneath the paper, so that has no texture to transfer if pressure is applied to the paper.