Tools I am currently using

[DanielG]

Hi everyone,

These are the tools I am currently using:

Faber-Castell clutch holders and leads - 4B, 2B, HB, 2H, 4H
DERWENT pencils in numerous grades down to 9H to 9B - use only for B grades above 4B
Strathmore 300 series Bristol vellum surface
Kneaded eraser
Tombow mono zero

I am wondering if I should switch my paper to a plate finish? Anyone use the strathmore bristol 500 series plate surface? I have a pad of it coming from Dick Blick.

Dan

[Mike Sibley]

I'll take these one by one...

Faber-Castell clutch holders and leads - 4B, 2B, HB, 2H, 4H

Good brand. Not one I use, although I do use two Faber clutch pencils - both 30+ years old.
Personally, I use Staedtler leads - 2B, HB, F, and 2H. Try a few brands, but then I suggest you pick your favourites and stick with them. If you constantly change, you'll have to keep relearning, too. Ideally, you should know exactly how each pencil will perform every time you pick it up.

DERWENT pencils in numerous grades down to 9H to 9B - use only for B grades above 4B

Again, I use (or used to use) Staedtler Lumograph. I don't like Derwent, but that's personal choice. I do have a set that I use in the videos, but the grades are generally lighter than the equivalent Staedtler. To repeat my advice: pick the brand you prefer and stick with it. Or a mix of brands, but then use those for the same specific purpose each time.

Strathmore 300 series Bristol vellum surface... I am wondering if I should switch my paper to a plate finish? Anyone use the Strathmore Bristol 500 series plate surface? I have a pad of it coming from Dick Blick.

I've only ever used Strathmore 300 - once. It looked smooth, but isn't as smooth as plate-finish. Personally, I dislike any paper that has a texture that interferes with what I'm drawing. So, plate-finish suits me well. I used to use Ivorex, and then its rebranded Mellotex. On the terminal demise of that paper (Tullis Russell was shut down by their parent company and the machinery destroyed), I finally found Conqueror Diamond White. It behaves exactly the same as Mellotex, but it's an even brighter white. All those papers are pH neutral (acid-free), long-grained, conservation quality, plate-finish... and the last two are commercial printing papers. So, you won't find them in art stores, and the minimum quantity tends to be packs of 100 sheets. If you have problems sourcing Conqueror, it's available from my website (minimum 5 sheets).

Kneaded eraser

Good choice... I use Blu-Tack, which is even more comprehensively useful (or whatever the word is that I can't think of ).

Tombow mono zero

I have something similar but, apart from in videos, I don't use it. I've banished erasing from the way I work - other than the use of Blu-Tack (or a kneadable eraser). Conventional erasers, smear, produce soft edges, and don't return paper to pristine white.
I use a few other tools too, that you see here: https://sibleyfineart.com/tutorial--pen ... -tools.htm.