DrawWithMike.net

When graphite drawing I think it is very challenging, but useful to create a VERY dark, solid black. I would be interested in hearing how other artists create their darkest darks. Also, what they consider to be the pros and cons of methods they have either tried or currently use.

I usually look at darks as a relative value. An area looks darker or lighter because of the values next to it.

For example if I'm drawing an animal and I'm using a range of leads from 2B to 2H (which is what I usually do), I know that I can layer 2H over 2B to darken it by breaking down the graphite in the 2B which helps fill in any white spots. Mike explains this very very well and it works perfectly for me.

Another technique that's useful to know is that when we draw in a tight circular motion we can fill in an area more completely.

If I want to layer again and the paper won't take any more graphite, one tip is to spray the area with workable fixative (another one of Mike's tips!). That gives the paper a fresh tooth so that it will accept more graphite.

Finally, I'll reserve for example a 4B pencil for the absolute darkest parts of my drawing which if often the eye in an animal. I won't use it everywhere in the drawing because that would diminish the impact.

Hope that helps.

Thank you Laurene. Very thorough and helpful. I already do some of what you suggested, but your information will help me refine my technique. I know another technique is to use a very dark charcoal pencil. J.D. Hillberry uses that technique with great results. I tried it, but it seemed a bit harder to create detailed work and had a tendency to look like it didn’t belong with the graphite. Perhaps it is a matter of knowing how to work with it or maybe it just isn’t a technique that fits my style.

Shmush wrote: Sun Nov 17, 2019 11:05 pmI know another technique is to use a very dark charcoal pencil. J.D. Hillberry uses that technique with great results. I tried it, but it seemed a bit harder to create detailed work and had a tendency to look like it didn’t belong with the graphite.

I experienced the same problem in the early days, using a carbon pencil for pure blacks, such as a pupil. It's possible that the charcoal does look out of place against the graphite in JD's originals. I've never seen one. However, if the original is drawn solely to be the originator of prints... then the problem ceases to exist. I do have one of JD's prints and, of course, regardless of which pencil is used, it's all ultimately matte printing ink.

From personal experience, that mismatch is why I decided to be a graphite purist - a decision that instantly removed the problem.

Have you tried the Staedler Mars Lumograph Carbon Black pencils? they give a dense black tone and work well with standard graphite. They have a higher level of carbon in the graphite mix and are a good one to try.
https://www.eckersleys.com.au/staedtler ... ts-pencils

LindasPencils wrote: Sun Dec 22, 2019 2:35 am Have you tried the Staedler Mars Lumograph Carbon Black pencils? they give a dense black tone and work well with standard graphite. They have a higher level of carbon in the graphite mix and are a good one to try.
https://www.eckersleys.com.au/staedtler ... ts-pencils

This is a response to an older post, which I just noticed. I just recently purchased these pencils and have been playing with them. they are definitely darker, but for some reason, so far I am not getting consistent shading. Possibly just a matter of learning how to work with them.

You got already couple of great answers, but you might like to know what's working for me?
1- Primo Elite Grande 5000
Very black, easy smudging, soft pencil
2- General's Kimberly 9xxB
Harder than Primo, not smudging as easy, not keen to erasing
3 - Wolff's carbon pencil B, 2B, 4B and 6B
The 6B is as dark as the Primo, but I have advantage of using other hardness too within this set.
4 - Staedtler Mars Lumograph Black (set)
Mentioned by Linda already...

It took me a great time to find darkest pencils possible, so give them a go, and decide if they handy for you too.

so far I am not getting consistent shading

that could be the result of any number of things - inconsistent pencil pressure, rougher paper surface, slight marks/grease on paper from your hand - the carbon will readily mark darker if there is any sort of oil on the paper. Also, trying to get the shading in one go. I prefer working in layers, building up. Usually I stroke evenly and lightly in one direction, then repeat at a 90degree angle another layer, then circular fill over the top to get a really deep tone. Sometimes I put down a blue pencil layer first to get a cool black colour. It takes practice and patience for a good result.

Dear Linda you did just mention about the oily things on the paper, so I think it's good to mention to Smush - do not touch the surface you about to draw with bare fingers...
I'm sure you already aware of it dear Smush, but I felt it may be good to point it...?